We had already been surprised by the amazing diversity of the Everglades on the 38-mile drive in — pine forests and coastal prairies as well as the expected swamps and mangroves — so by the time my wife and I pulled up to the Flamingo Visitor Center we were eager to get out in a canoe and see the park in a much more leisurely and intimate way.

We pushed off and almost immediately confronted a very strong headwind that was whistling down Buttonwood Canal and out into Florida Bay. It was tough going and soon the first beads of sweat started to form because of the effort needed just to make forward progress. Those beads soon turned into torrents because even in mid-January Florida can be warm.

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But then we decided that this wasn't as much about getting anywhere as it was about taking in the Everglades from a canoe. We pushed onward and soon found a rhythm, albeit one that required a bit more exertion than either of us would have liked. With coordinated paddles dipping into the dark waters we found a certain serenity-just two of us, the wind and wildlife all around.

We glided alongside numerous alligators that appeared to be supremely uninterested in us (although we didn't want to tip over and find out if wet humans were any more enticing), an osprey flew overhead, then a stork took wing. With thick vegetation surrounding us we easily forgot that downtown Miami was only a few hours away.

Reaching midpoint took us twice as long as we'd expected but our foe on the way out became our friend on the return. With the wind at our backs we were able to finally relax and take things in at a more unhurried pace. We arrived at the dock with tired arms and sweat drenched clothes, but also with a feeling that we got what we bargained for: a quiet day seeing a bit of the Everglades the only way that seemed proper-- with a paddle.

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