George Mallory—the famed Everest pioneer—did the third ascent of the Kuffner in 1911. Mallory was so impressed with the quality of the route that he later wrote an account of his ascent and waxed lyrical about the route, the nature of summits, and why we push ourselves toward them: "Have we vanquished an enemy? None but ourselves. Have we gained success? That word means nothing here. Have we won a kingdom? No...and yes. We have achieved an ultimate satisfaction...fulfilled a destiny.... To struggle and to understand—never this last without the other; such is the law...."

It was, some writers have observed, a foreshadowing of that great epithet to come: "Because it's there."

Just the Facts First ascent: M. Kuffner, A. Burgener, Josef Furrer, 1887. Time required: 10 hours round-trip from the Torino or Cosmiques Hut Technical grade: Alpine Ice 3 References: Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. I, by Lindsay Griffin

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Climbing Trips Head for the top of the world with these alpine and rock-climbing adventures. Top Activity Destinations Rocky Mountains Nepal South America Alps

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