Climbing Calls
Dunc's Question:
What does unbelay and belay on mean?
Thanks,
— Dunc
Don's Answer:
Climbers use a series of calls to signal when it's safe to climb. The calls need to be short and clear. Confusion, obviously, would be a disaster.
As with so many of the knots we use, the term"belay" has nautical roots, referring to something about tying off a line. Climbers use the word to mean managing a rope to safeguard a partner (usually by feeding it through a belay device and locking it off in a fall). When we put someone "on belay", we are making a pledge to hold the rope should our partner slip.
I think you are confusing "unbelay" with "on belay".
The typical communication sequence is:
"on belay" - The belayer is ready and he makes the pledge.
"climbing" - The climber signals that he's ready to start.
"off belay" - The climber has reached safety at the top or the bottom and is signaling that he's secure and no longer needs coverage.
"belay off" - The belayer signals that he's heard the call and has let go of the rope (actually, he's disengaged it from whatever belay device he's using).
These are the key signals. Between "on belay" and "off belay" there is a sacred promise to be attentive, with the belayer never assuming that the climber no longer needs the belay until he is clearly told and taken off duty.
Other calls are:
"up rope" or just "rope" - The climber wants a tighter line.
"tension" or "take" - The climber wants to hang on the rope; thus the belayer needs to pull hard before locking off.
"slack" - The climber wants a looser rope. Do not say, "There's too much slack" or "Take up the slack". The belayer might only hear "slack" and loosen, rather than tighten, the rope.
"watch me" - The climber is at a tough spot and might fall.
"!#?*%!#?" - The climber is scared or falling; the propriety of his dialogue might be compromised for a moment. Be forgiving.
Be crisp and clear. Don't take anyone off belay unless you are sure. Use first names on crowded days. Yes, the wrong person has been taken off belay by hearing another party's calls.
Have fun,
—Don
from Away.com
