I don't think it's a decision between lace-up and slip-on; it's more between soft and stiff. There are lots of lace-up shoes that are as soft as their slip-on counterparts.

	Don Mellor Don Mellor Don Mellor has been climbing, writing about climbing, and teaching climbing for more than 25 years. Meet Don Expert Answers

One simple rule that might help is"the steeper the rock the softer the shoe". And so indoor climbing that launches you out on overhanging terrain is generally the realm of the soft shoe. The reason for this is that as the terrain steepens, your feet stand less and grab more, almost as if they are a second set of hands. Soft shoes allow you to "hang" on with your feet, keeping your body from cutting loose from the wall. As you make upward stabs with your hands, you can simultaneously pull your body in by grabbing on with your feet.

On less-than-vertical terrain, your weight is on your feet, not your arms. If the edges are small and positive (as on some granite or horizontally bedded sandstone) the stiffer shoe allows you to edge with confidence. If, however, the less-than-vertical rock lacks positive edges (the holds are rounded or the inclined plane of the cliff is smooth) then a soft shoe might be the answer here as well, allowing you to smoosh a lot more rubber onto the insecure surface of the rock.

When you shop for shoes, you'll hear talk of "board lasting" versus "slip lasting" (a "last" is the form on which a shoe is constructed). The board-lasted shoe is built by constructing an upper onto a stiff sole, a process that generally produces a more stout shoe. The slip-lasted shoe is fabricated more like a leather sock with a sole glued on and is usually more supple.

If your climbing is mainly indoors, then you'll enjoy a softer, "grabbier" shoe for the overhanging routes. If you decide to add to your arsenal of shoes, I'd suggest for your second pair a stiffer, "general purpose" shoe that will feel comfortable all day long on less-than-vertical rock.

As for lace-up versus slip-on? Proponents of the slip-on shoe say it's more convenient. Seriously, though, how much work is it to tie your shoes? I much prefer the adjustment and control I get from lacing up my own shoes. I also find that when I am strong and in good climbing shape, I like soft shoes, and when I'm weak and flabby, I appreciate being able to stand with confidence on a stiffer base. (Thus, this spring I've spent a lot of time in my good-old board-lasted favorites!)

Good luck,
—Don

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