One of the country's best trainers for rock climbing is Steve Ilg, outdoor performance coach and author of The Outdoor Athlete. Here's his response to your question:

	Don Mellor Don Mellor Don Mellor has been climbing, writing about climbing, and teaching climbing for more than 25 years. Meet Don Expert Answers

"Gaining strength without bulk for climbing requires many hours of doing climbing-specific or semi-specific resistance training. Since the resistance in climbing is basically bodyweight, I have my climbers gain a few pounds of muscle mass in the gym during a short off-season period. Then I refine that muscle mass in the preseason by getting them out of the gym and doing long, easy bouldering sessions coupled with power yoga. Finally, I let the climbing season finish off the maturation of strength without bulk. I have used this formula both personally and professionally for many years with great success."

Steve's approach is certainly more scientific than mine is. I've always believed that general fitness, including lots of running, puts one in good climbing shape. As for the specifics of muscle training, I look at it this way: do some hard climbs that give you a maximum burn, and then think about which muscles are pumped. Simply work on those muscles. The groups of muscles that include your back, shoulders, and lats are vital. Abdominal strength is also really important. And, of course, you can work on your forearms forever; they don't weigh much. Still looking to trim excess weight? Remember, you don't need a big chest or bulging biceps unless you climb at the beach.

Good luck,
—Don

	Fitness and climbing Be sure to check out Don's advice on conditioning for climbing . Join the discussion on training to increase strength in the GORP community.

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