Gearzilla » Mountaineering

Jim Whittaker: A Life on the Edge—Memoirs of Everest and Beyond

nborchelt — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 12:00:22 +0000

www.mountaineersbooks.org
With all the buzz about the 50^th anniversary of the first American ascent of Mt. Everest, we picked up a copy of Jim Wittaker’s A Life on the Edge (published in 1999). If you haven’t read Whittaker’s memoirs, it’s a must-read mountaineering tale. While it doesn’t have the gravity of Herzog’s Annapurna, or the mirth of Patey’s One Man’s Mountains, it stands out as a fascinating, insightful, and honest portrayal of the life of one of the U.S.’s most successful mountaineers, who was also successful in business and social life. In addition to being the first American on Everest in 1963, Whittaker was REI’s first employee and later, CEO. Due to his Everest exploits, he met President John F Kennedy, and after the President’s assassination, led Bobby Kennedy on the first ascent of what is now Canada’s Mt. Kennedy. An assignment to write about the expedition for Sports Illustrated led to a friendship between the two men and their families, which culminated with Whittaker heading up Senator Kenney’s presidential bid for Washington. After RFK’s assassination in 1968, Whittaker remained a confident of the Kennedy family, as well as one of America’s foremost alpine climbers. Whittaker’s book chronicles his childhood, with his twin brother, Lou, starting their climbing career in the Washington Cascades. In addition to fascinating stories about their early experiences on Mt. Ranier, and training for the Cold Weather Command during the Korean War, some of the most delightful tales involve Whittaker’s 1963 American Mt. Everest Expedition, and ensuing trip of Canada’s Mt. Kennedy with Bobby Kennedy in 1965. As climbers know, mountains help forge unbreakable bonds, and the book recounts Jim’s intimate interaction with the Kennedy family, including classic stories of skiing with the clan in Sun Valley. The book is a mixture of fascinating insight and great story telling.

Timberland Radler Trail Camp Mid Insulated Boots

nborchelt — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 13:00:30 +0000

shop.timberland.com
Serious mountaineering and winter camping often calls for serious footwear like hard-plastic, crampon-friendly boots. But when you finally reach the end of the day, the feeling of freedom from those boots beats out even shedding a World Cup-tight ski boot. But unlike hanging by the fire in a warm lodge, après in the backcountry means colder temps as the evening fades into night. That’s where the Radler Trail Camp Boots excel. They zip together at the soles when not in use, which means they take a fraction of pack space that would otherwise be swallowed by another pair of kicks. When you’re ready, unzip ‘em and nestle your feet in more than 14 ounces of water-resistant, breathable Thermolite insulation. The outsoles are made of twin rubbers that give you the perfect degree of protection and traction, and the next day you can zip ‘em closed and stash them in your pack, where they’ll be waiting.

Bonus: we’re seeing clearance sales of up to 50 percent off these shoes!

Mammut Extreme Siam Gloves

nborchelt — Wed, 20 Feb 2013 18:00:50 +0000

www.mammut.ch, nine ounces
We talk a lot here at Gearzilla about one’s relationship to gear. How one item in our arsenal suddenly becomes our go-to must-have, the one that you describe to anyone who will listen. For one intrepid, snow-obsessed tester that had been his pair of Mammut ski gloves, which were stolen last year (or…left behind after après). This season we arranged for him to test a pair of the Extreme Siams, and all of his prior allegiance is like dust in the wind. These two-chamber gloves are a worthy partner for all high-alpine applications. The “upper” chamber (read: wearing the glove with the full use of insulation) provides hearty protection against the cold, cold winter. Then, in warmer conditions or when more dexterity is needed, you slip into the lower chamber, which pushes the insulation to the back of the hand and gives you solid tactility. The palms are lined with tough sheep leather, while the outer shell keeps things dry thanks to a Gore-Tex XCR three-layer waterproof/breathable insert. The glove has been pre-curved for optimal fit, with reinforced knuckles, a wicking liner, Velcro straps at the wrist, and easy pull cords on the gauntlet-style cuffs. Pull loops make it easy to get ‘em on (even if your hand is wet), but we do wish they also had interior wrist leashes. That would make us feel safer about yanking them off while on the lift—or keep us from leaving ‘em behind after one too many.

Winter OR Round-Up: Princeton Tec Vizz Headlamp

nborchelt — Mon, 18 Feb 2013 18:00:46 +0000

www.princetontec.com
This March, Princeton Tec will unveil a new outdoor/all-purpose headlamp that should hit the sweet spot for weekend warriors and backpackers looking to light up the backcountry (or brave a power outage). The design of the Vizz itself is nearly idiot-proof, with one big button—and that’s about it. Press the button once and you illuminate two ultra-bright red LEDs, press it twice and get dual ultra-bright white LEDs. You can also hold the button down to cycle through the modes, which includes a 150-lumin max-bright LED that can illuminate up to 90 feet. The Vizz is waterproof down to one meter for up to half an hour, and runs on three AAA batteries—with a built-in power meter to let you how much juice you’ve got left in the estimated 160-hour run time; a low-battery indicator also triggers when you’re down to 20 percent.

Winter OR Round-Up: Arc’Teryx Gets Down

nborchelt — Mon, 11 Feb 2013 13:00:30 +0000

www.arcteryx.com
This fall Arc’Teryx will introduce down-insulated pieces into their line of high-quality apparel. And, as with everything this boutique brand does, they’re doing it in a new, interesting way. The down they’ll use in pieces like the 850-fill Cerium AR ($259, pictured right) and Cerium LT ($350, pictured left) jackets is “food-grade,” which means that the feathers are sourced from fully grown birds from Europe used in the production of foie gras. The feathers are consequently larger than those found in other brands. Other innovations in their new down line include a durable shell construction, with “core loft” synthetic insulation in high-compression areas like the shoulders and cuffs to eliminate cold spots. We also love the reconfigured hood design, which carries the down baffles vertically over your head/helmet, and lets the crown of the hood nestle comfortably over your head and ears. There will be a total of 11 products in this line, along with hybrid products that boast the new Gore Tex Pro Shell.

Winter OR Round-Up: Eddie Bauer and First Ascent

nborchelt — Thu, 07 Feb 2013 13:00:20 +0000

www.eddiebauer.com
www.eddiebauer.com/EB/First-Ascent

This year, Eddie Bauer is making a big deal about, well, a big deal as 2013 marks the 50^th anniversary of Jim Whittaker becoming the first American on the summit of Everest. To commemorate the historic achievement, Eddie Bauer is offering limited-edition, commemorative versions of the iconic Downlight Jacket and the Karakoram Sleeping Bag. We expect both pieces to be fantastic in a classic-retro way and something that we expect to maintain value for another 50 years. There are no photos of the new pieces yet, but we expect to test them in early summer, so we’ll report back before they hit the shelves in the fall. One piece that is available now that is a must-have is the BC MicroTherm Down Jacket 2.0 ($299). The warm but extremely well-venting jacket speaks to Eddie Bauer’s expedition creds—the 800-fill down parka is worthy of alpine storms, with waterproofing rated to a bomber 20K (that mean’s it will withstand a hard rain), but it weighs in at only one pound and four ounces. We love the long tail to kept snow, wind, and cold from sneaking up our backside, and the snug (but not too tight) cuffs. Plus, the hood fits over a helmet without restricting side-to-side movement or peripheral vision.

Also, at a recent dinner at Outdoor Retailer Winter 2013, Eddie Bauer and their PR team from Backbone Media hosted Jim and his family (his adventure-parnter-wife Dianne, and youngest son, Leif, who has summited Everest twice), a red-carpet list of media personalities, and an all-star cast of big time guides and mountaineers. Keep an eye out for Eddie Bauer (and its talented offspring, First Ascent) for fall ’13 celebrations of Everest’s first ascent—including a film clip of fantastic footage of the 1963 Everest expedition.

Winter OR Round-Up: Black Diamond Introduces New Apparel Line

nborchelt — Fri, 01 Feb 2013 13:00:02 +0000

www.blackdiamondequipment.com

SLC-based Black Diamond has been on the outdoor scene since 1957, and their products have won the loyalty of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts and a long slew of awards for gear innovation and design. From hard goods like magnetic carabiners and backcountry skis to soft goods like cold-weather gloves and the Avalung backpack, which has saved countless lives during avalanches, BD has stepped up its game each season. And this continues as we look into fall 2013 with an all-new line of apparel.

The first in a three-year plan of…let’s call it “focused domination,” Black Diamond will deliver a line of men’s soft shells, base layers, and insulated fleece next fall, working with a variety of textiles including Schoeller, Primaloft, and Polartech. We got a sneak peak…

The Dawn Patrol Hybrid Jacket ($349, pictured left) employs a Schoeller stretch-woven nylon shell with body-mapped, three-layer waterproof laminate and NanoSphere Technology, which encourages dirt and water to run off the fabric much like the self-cleaning effect of certain plants. The jacket boasts backcountry- and climbing-friendly features like two massive chest pockets, zippered hand pockets, and an adjustable, helmet-compatible hood. The Access Hybrid Hoody ($249, pictured center), meanwhile, melds a nylon shell with Primaloft insulation and Schoeller stretch nylon side panels to insulate on ice and rock, and will be built for movement and warmth. It’s got a chest pocket, stretch-gusset cuffs, a drawcord hem, and internal drop pockets, and is part of their Primaloft-centric Stance and Access line. Pieces like the Coefficient Hoody ($159, pictured right) fill the need for base- and mid-layers, described as the Crag, Solution, and Coefficient line. This zip-up layer uses Polartec Power Dry fleece (80% poly, 12% elastine) to provide athletic stretch, fast drying, warmth, and breathability. It has a single chest pocket, stretch cuffs, a smooth-to-the-touch feel, and an under-the-helmet, clean-fitting hood.

At first blush the color patterns and overall designs are impressive—it’s clear that Black Diamond spent a lot of time considering every detail, rather than rushing these 24 style to the market. (Creds for this go to former Patagonia clotheshorse, Tim Bantle and an A-list design team culled from other apparel powerhouses). Some decisions, like the tight elastic cuffs on the fleece, may relegate the product to solely to the field, as the feature doesn’t lend itself wearing it around around town as much as it does to hanging at the crag. This single focus may make the also A-list price points somewhat dear. But the designers’ inventive use of multiple fabrics could be a smart collaboration in creating truly high-performance pieces that could easily find a place in an already-crowded market.

In spring 2014, Black Diamond will introduce men’s alpine and climbing products, with the first women’s outwear coming in fall 2014. Ski wear will follow in fall 2015.

We have a few prototypes in our testers’ hands right now, and will report back as we approach the official release of the new product to the masses.

Winter OR Round-Up: Julbo Vermont Mythics Sunglasses

nborchelt — Tue, 29 Jan 2013 13:00:14 +0000

www.julbousa.com
For three generations Julbo has been producing some of the best in mountaineering eyewear, and to celebrate its 15^th anniversary, the family-owned, Euro-based manufacturer will release limited-edition shades modeled after the ones that were originally used to hunt crystals in the Alps back in the late 1800s. The special edition Vermont Mythics will be released, with leather shields, curved and wrapped temples, and all-glass lenses in a wonderfully retro cardboard boxes. This spring Julbo will also launch an online prescription program, offering custom performance eyewear with three lens technologies (the Zebra, Camel, and Falcon) in such models as the Bivouak, Explorer, Dirt, Pipeline, and Zulu, with prices that range from $400 to $600, with a two- to four-week turnaround. Sadly, the coveted Vermont Mythics will not be part of their Rx campaign.

Big Agnes Blackburn SL Sleeping Bag

nborchelt — Tue, 22 Jan 2013 13:00:43 +0000

www.bigagnes.com, two pounds, 13 ounces
When you’re camping in winter, a nice warm place to rest can be hard to come by. That’s why I love the Big Anges Blackburn SL down sleeping bag. As the temperature dropped into the single digits I found myself happy to crawl into this zero degree-rated bag. The Blackburn utilizes vertical baffles that run the full length of the bag to great effect. Only moments after crawling into this bag you feel toasty warm. Big Agnes does some clever things here, starting with the integrated pad sleeve; instead of adding insulation to the bottom of the bag that just ends up getting compressed and becomes useless, the Big Agnes system relies on the sleeping pad to provide lower insulation while you sleep. This also cuts down on the weight and packed size of the bag. But if you go from a 1.5-inch-thick, self-inflating foam pad to a three-inch pad, you’ll definitely lose room inside the bag. This bag has a few other trick up its sleeve. The drawstring around the face closure is stretchy shock cord, so as you move around inside the bag the opening can flow and move with you. The top of the bag boasts a pillow stuff sack, perfect for their $30 inflatable Air Core Pillow, or for a rolled-up fleece. And the horseshoe-shaped draft collar tucks comfortably around your neck to keep the warm air in and the cold air out. You can choose between two lengths (regular and long) and which side on which you prefer the zipper. The rectangular fit further enhances the loose feel of the bag; if you hate feeling trapped in mummy-style sleeping pads, but worry about sacrificing warmth by introducing “empty spots” in a more traditional rectangular bag, the Blackburn is the perfect solution to truly comfortable cold-weather slumber.
-Chris Boyle

Petzl Meteor III + Helmet

nborchelt — Wed, 29 Aug 2012 12:00:17 +0000

www.petzl.com, eight ounces
Light is right when it comes to most backcountry gear, and light is even righter if it’s an item you carry as often as you use, like helmets. Petzl’s Meteor has long been a standard for climbers and alpinists seeking an ultralight bucket, and like most collapsible foam and shell climbing helmets (think beefed up bike helmet design) it’s rated as a CE-certified helmet for cycling, inline skating, light kayaking, canyoneering, and adventure racing.

The Meteor III+, a modest upgrade, tipped our digital scale at exactly 8 ounces. That makes it lighter than every climbing helmet aside from the equal-weight, but less comfortable, Camp Speed. Black Diamond’s (cheaper) Tracer and the (pricier, less ventilated) Kong Scarab are a bit heavier. The weight differences aren’t much, but we found them obvious during wear – and glaring in relation to hard shell helmets.

“The Meteor III+ also felt cooler during bike rides and hot weather canyoneering than my other helmets,” our tester reported. “It’s a tad hotter than most bike helmets weighing two to three ounces more, but I really like the best-in-show upward vision, which is critical for route-finding and rock-fall avoidance.” Four outside clips hold headlamps very securely, better than any other climbing helmet we’ve tried.

Size range is another strong point. The Meteor III+ adjusts from 20- to 25-inch head circumferences—a huge range. Our 23-inch melon-headed tester was at the limit of his Kong, but easily had room for sweatbands or balaclavas under the Meteor III+. The only drawback was that the ultralight rachet sizing mechanism made back-and-forth layering adjustments fussy. Forward-backward, and lower-higher chin harness adjustments were easy.

The main downside to using a helmet like the Meteor? It’s fragile, so you need to baby it a bit during knock-around use. This isn’t some hard shell bucket you can sit on around camp. Like all helmets, it should be retired after taking a significant hit. Fittings like the head circumference adjustment could be broken if you get impatient, but spare parts are available.
-Steve Howe