THE JUNKYARD
(FORMERLY AIRPLANE FLATS)
Location: In front of the El Cid La Ceiba Beach Hotel
Depth range: 10-40ft (12-14m)
Access: Shore

The Junkyard (formerly Airplane Flats) stretches from the front of La Ceiba in the south to just north of the next hotel (its name has changed several times in recent years, but most locals still call it the Sol Caribe, while others call it the Crown Paradise). Most of the terrain at The Junkyard is rather flat, but there’s a lot to see. Snorkelers will find this an excellent spot to see fish and gorgonians (sea fans).

On the sandy bottom directly out from La Ceiba in about 40ft (12m) of water, there is some wreckage left from an old twin-engine airplane placed here as a prop for the movie Survive by film director Ramon Bravo in 1977. It’s been broken up badly by storms, which have moved it around. Be careful not to get snagged, and look out for sharp metal edges. Many fish have made it their home over the years, and octopuses are not uncommon.

Exposed metal surfaces remain fairly clean due to the scraping bites of parrotfish, whose toothmarks can be seen on the metal along with the graffiti of thoughtless divers. Also, look for purple patches of sergeant major eggs on the pieces of the plane. The eggs will be guarded by expectant — and aggressive — parents that will nip divers who get too close.

Unfortunately, the area is also littered with old tires, barrels, pipes, cables and other large pieces of junk. If it ever gets cleaned up, we’ll change its name in this book back to ‘Airplane Flats.’ Snorkelers can rent gear from the full-service dive stores at most of the hotels along the waterfront.

Due to easy access and lights at the hotels and docks, this is a near-perfect site for night diving. If there’s any current running, you might consider jumping in at the up-current end of the site (usually, but not always, La Ceiba) and exiting at the down-current site (usually the Sol Caribe) to save yourself some swimming.

Near shore are some elkhorn coral heads, though the best formations have been battered by major hurricanes in 1988 and 2005. Long-spined sea urchins are common around these coral heads — be careful not to touch or step on them. Beds of gorgonians begin at a depth of around 10ft (3m) and continue seaward on a shallow shelf, which is ideal for snorkelers. At night, basket stars are frequently seen spread out on top of gorgonians, feeding in the dark. There are also big open areas on the shelf with a few small coral heads. These areas are excellent places to look for large rainbow parrotfishes, especially when the sun is low in the late afternoon. You’ll see them feeding on the bottom, picking at plants and chunks of coral. The shallows are patrolled by territorial damselfish that, despite their diminutive size, are inclined to nip at offending divers.

The shelf breaks at the edge of a sand flat about 30ft to 40ft (9m to 13m) deep, where a low-profile coral reef replaces the gorgonian beds a few hundred feet from shore. The most characteristic species are leaf or ribbon corals.

This reef is an ideal warm-up dive. There is enough open space over the sand to practice buoyancy control, and enough fish action to keep the dive interesting. The coral is not in very good shape due to heavy traffic and storm damage, but you’ll find plenty of things to see. The fish are accustomed to handouts, so don’t be surprised if you’re mobbed by Bermuda chub or sergeant majors. Due to the large amount of trash on the bottom, keep your eyes open and beware of sharp or entangling objects.

PARAÍSO REEF SOUTH
Location: South of the International Pier Complex
Depth range: 35-45ft (11-14m)
Access: Boat

Paraíso (Paradise) Reef South consists of two long ridges of coral running end- to-end parallel to shore and surrounded by sand, at depths of about 35ft to 45ft (11m to 14m). It lies to the south of the International Pier complex and is sometimes visited by charter boats and dive operators after a deeper wall dive, or as a third dive of the day. It is also a favorite among dive operators for night dives, since it is a short boat ride from most hotels and is fairly shallow. It may also be reached easily from the shore, but boat traffic makes that inadvisable. While it’s a bit deep for most skin divers, the near- shore ridge is a good reef to snorkel over and watch scuba divers. Look out for boat traffic!

Paraíso Reef South is home to many tame fish that have been fed by dive guides. If you’re hoping to see large, bizarre filefish, or French and gray angels within arms’ reach, you probably won’t be disappointed. The coral formations are medium-sized and this entire reef is relatively low in profile. The small crevices at the bases of the coral heads shelter many squirrelfish during the daytime, and serve as ‘toeholds’ for the six-foot-long (2m) sea cucumbers that stretch out on the sand at night to feed. The reef is ideal for photographers, since depth control on the fairly level bottom is far simpler than on any of the walls. If you’re planning to make a wall dive while in Cozumel, you’ll find when the current is running, Paraíso South is a good place to get some experience in drift diving techniques over level bottom before you hit the drop-offs.

If the current is running to the north, drift along the coral ridge with it. The first ridge is several hundred yards long and ends abruptly in sand at its northernmost point. If your air and bottom time permit, continue swimming toward the north, but angle to your left (westward or seaward) about 30 degrees from the line of the reef when you leave the first ridge. You will come to the southern tip of the second ridge within a minute or two. The second section runs parallel to the shore, but slightly seaward of the first, and is about the same in length. The second section also ends in sand at its northern tip. There is a small third section farther north and more seaward still, but it is near the International Pier complex and should be avoided (see Avoid the International Pier Complex! box). If the current is running to the south, ask to be dropped on the northern tip of the second ridge, and do the dive just described in reverse.