Bull Trout
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North Fork of the Flathead River
Loving the North Fork of the Flathead River is not easy. The hiking is long, hard, and often in the trees, but the fishing destinations are some of the best in Glacier National Park. The primary species in the North Fork drainage are westslope cutthroat trout, bull trout, and mountain whitefish. Several introduced species, such as rainbow and lake trout, can be found in less remote areas and especially along the river. This area used to be nationally renowned for its bull trout fishing, but the decline of the bull trout and its spawning habitat have made this only a memory. Most of the waters offer lots of action with smaller fish.
To access most of the waters in this drainage you need strong legs for day hiking or a backcountry permit to spend the night, and you must carry a copy of the park's fishing regulations. If you want to fish from the west bank of the river, which is outside the park boundary, or if you want to float the river and fish from a boat, you need a Montana fishing license.
Note: Fish Creek and Upper Kintla Lake are closed to fishing (Upper Kintla because it contains a genetically unique population of bull trout.) Dutch Lake, Pocket Lake, Long Bow Lake, Gyrfalcon Lake and Ruger Lake are fishless. Although several of these lakes have been stocked, none can support reproducing populations of fish.
Key species: westslope cutthroat trout, mountain whitefish, bull trout, rainbow trout, lake trout
Best time to fish: Mid-July through September
Access: Canadian border, Ford Work Center, Polebridge, Coal Creek, Big Creek, Glacier Rim, Blankenship Bridge. Besides these Fishing Access Sites (FAS), bridges cross the river at Polebridge, Camas, and Blankenship
See MAP of North Fork Country.
The fishing: As a result of massive melting in the park and north of the border, the North Fork of the Flathead River is a raging monster in spring. The wide, meandering, logjammed route from the Canadian border to Camas Bridge changes every year, and you should consult the Forest Service and your river map. These meanders form deep holes and hold lots of small cutthroat, preyed on by fish migrating upstream from Flathead Lake. This is one of the most, if not the most wild and scenic rivers in America. On a warm summer day the scenery is incredible. You might see grizzly, elk, wolves, mule deer, and other predators and their prey along the banks.
The North Fork benefits from the lakes connected to it, especially Flathead Lake. Fish that migrate upstream from Flathead Lake help make it possible to catch big fish in the river. Most of the fish caught along this stretch of river are cutthroats between eight and 13 inches. You can also catch rainbows up to 20 inches and some large migrant lake trout.
Lake Trout
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Note: The Flathead River drainage is catch-and-release for westslope cutthroat. Fish accordingly.
A. Canadian Border to Ford Work Center FAS: This section is the least fished and wildest section of the North Fork. When we float this section, we often send a kayaker ahead to scout the river for logjams and dangerous "sweepers" (a downed tree or branch obtruding from the bank), both of which can prove deadly to floaters. Check with the Forest Service before floating.
This is a good section to fish wet or with lures such as a small Thomas Cyclone, but make sure to cut two of the three hooks off these lures in order to release the fish unharmed.
B. Ford Work Center FAS to Polebridge FAS: This section is much the same as the previous section, except where the river passes Round Prairie, as the Park Service likes to call the sagebrush flats on the park side. Round Prairie is a good place for terrestrial imitations. Try an Adams Irresistible; its bulky body imitates both a mayfly and several terrestrials, such as beetles and ants. Just before the bridge, fish the outlet of Bowman Creek from the park side.
C. Polebridge FAS to Coal Creek (unofficial access): This section also meanders, with rocky bottoms and possible logjams. Spring Creek and Hay Creek enter the river along this stretch and are especially good spots to drop a line. Watch for midsummer golden stonefly hatches.
D. Coal Creek (unofficial access) to the Camas Bridge (no boat ramp): This section is some of the most unpredictable water on the river. In 1995 it was completely blocked by a spring logjam and several floaters who didn't scout ahead or check with the Forest Service were seriously injured because of this. The river is different every year, sometimes forming large side channels that you should fish as you would a small river. Often, stopping and walking across an island to fish a nice hole on the other side can be very rewarding. This section also contains some of the bigger rainbows and hybrids, which go for hoppers and Yellow Humpies late in the summer.
E. Camas Bridge (no boat ramp) to Big Creek FAS: This section is a good place to try a little lure fishing. The long, flat runs after the bridge hold some big fish, and they are not always feeding on the surface. There is a little bit of a rock garden just before Big Creek. Try it, and remember to fish the holes on the east side of the river past Big Creek that the campers cannot reach. No fishing is allowed within 100 yards of the mouth of Big Creek.
F. Big Creek FAS to Glacier Rim FAS: This section is popular with local residents and gets more pressure than upstream reaches. It does hold fish, especially in the canyon area, where most attractor patterns should do the trick if the fish are biting. Fishing a nymph can be difficult because of the swirling water, but you can pick up larger fish and give the mouths of the baby cutts a rest. Remember "Fool Hen Rapids" — this is not all flat water.
For lures, try a yellow Rooster Tail, a Panther Martin, or a Rainbow Krocodile.
G. Glacier Rim FAS to Blankenship Bridge FAS: This section offers less action than some of the other sections, but it has some big bows and the grassy banks make for good hopper water. The action may be slow, but when you get one it will be a big one. Concentrate especially on the long, flat boulder runs, a favorite of rainbows. During low water, just before Blankenship Bridge you start picking up whitefish both mountain and lake whitefish on dries. There are some good-sized whitefish and lake trout where the two rivers meet.
Strategies: For flies I recommend Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear, Adams Parachute, Joe's Hopper, Royal Trude, yellow Humpy, Olive Woolly Bugger, and Pink Egg Sucking Leech for muddy water. In the morning, an Adams Parachute fished in a shallow riffle can be deadly. On a hot afternoon, prospecting with a hopper or Yellow Stimulator is always a good idea.
If you try a spoon, I recommend a yellow Panther Martin, black or red Daredevle, and silver-and-red Mepps with two hooks removed to facilitate the release of cutthroat and bull trout. Avoid larger lures. I've also had some luck taking lake trout on Kamlooper Spoons on lower stretches of the North Fork.
Note: I do not recommend bait fishing because of the bull trout, which tend to swallow hooks deep and prevent releasing. If you do catch a bull and are unable to get the hook out without harming the fish, cut the line and leave in the lure. Sometimes a fish has a chance of working the lure free on its own.
Westslope Cutthroat Trout
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Use: Heavy floater use, although more canoes and light crafts than rafts and dories; less outfitter use because of the bumpy, dirt access road. Wade fishing is concentrated around bridges and campgrounds, especially near Big Creek Campground and the Camas Bridge.
Access from West Glacier: Drive into the park, past the entrance, and follow Going-to-the-Sun Road to a T intersection. At the T, turn left on Camas Road toward Apgar and continue straight past several turnoffs to Apgar and Fish Creek, heading north on Camas Road. About 15 miles later, cross the North Fork on the Camas Bridge. This is the end of good pavement. From here you can drive upstream or downstream outside North Fork Road. On the west side of the Camas Bridge is a jeep trail where you can drag a raft or carry a canoe to the river.
You can also reach the Outside North Fork Road directly from Columbia Falls. It is 30 miles from West Glacier to Polebridge FAS (28 to Polebridge) and 38 miles from Columbia Falls to Polebridge FAS.
Access north of the Camas Bridge: Drive 3.2 miles north to a pullout on the right, just before Coal Creek. This is the Coal Creek FAS. You can sometimes back in a trailer, but not at high water. Reach the next access site by driving 1.5 miles to the north, turning right, and driving east through Polebridge for 2 miles to Polebridge FAS. Before crossing the North Fork into the park, there is a well-maintained access site. If you do not take the side trip to Polebridge, continue north on the Outside North Fork Road for 10 miles to Ford Work Center FAS, which provides a tricky access point where you will have to drag your raft down to the water. You can also access the river in about another 10 miles, at the Canadian Border, where there is access for rafts and canoes.
Access via the Inside North Fork Road: Big Creek Campground, 2.25 miles south of the Camas Bridge on the Outside North Fork Road, has a rocky but usable boat ramp. You can launch a canoe or raft at Great Northern Flats, 3.2 miles south of Big Creek, but not a dory; there is no boat ramp. Glacier Rim access, 9.2 miles south of Big Creek on the Outside North Fork Road, is sandy and a little tricky for trailers but heavily used.
The southernmost access site on the North Fork is at Blankenship Bridge, where the river enters the Middle Fork. It is a good access site, but remember to start rowing across the Middle Fork before you pass under the bridge. If you don't pull hard to the south shore at high water, you could miss it.
Access via the Inside North Fork Road: You can also access the North Fork via the Inside North Fork Road. Turn right off Camas Road about a half mile after crossing McDonald Creek, heading north from the T intersection on Going-to-the-Sun Road. Take a left as you near Fish Creek Campground.
For the first hour of driving, you will not see the river much, but the ride is primitive and wild. I recommend taking a four-wheel drive because it is bumpy. Just past Logging Creek, you can see the river. Park, bushwhack, and fish. I recommend floating or, if you do not have a boat, walking upriver from one of the public fishing access sites on the west side of the river.
Note: Be respectful of private holdings outside the park. Always ask before you hunt or fish on private land.
Move on to The Middle Fork of the Flathead River
