A GORP Content Partner
Adapted from
The Rock Climber's Guide
To Montana
ed. by Randall Green;
Lolo Pass Climbs
by Brad Hutcheson
LOLO PASS CLIMBS
Granitic Dome Climbing, with Routes on the Heap!
Scattered throughout the Lolo Pass area about 40 miles southwest of Missoula are coarse-textured granitic rock domes from 40 feet to 300 feet tall. Mostly concentrated on the north side of U.S. Highway 12 near the top of the pass, the routes here offer friction climbing with an ample share of edges, pockets, and cracks thrown in for variety. The well-weathered cracks tend to be flaring in nature so camming units are especially useful here. Although the routes are often gear dependent with bolts interspersed as needed, there also are some true sport climbs in the area.
A standard gear rack for Lolo should include Tri-Cams (#.5 through #1.5), which are considered essential for protecting the many holes and pockets found on the climbs, in addition to a good selection of wired stoppers, TCUs, nuts, cams, slings, and quick draws.
The Lolo Hot Springs resort is nearby for soaking tired muscles after a long day of climbing. The climbing season at the domes generally lasts from late March to November.
Unless there is a reasonable way to walk or scramble off the rock, anchors for rappels are fixed chain or the old hanger and sling system.
Ethics: Chipping, manufacturing, or gluing on holds is not tolerated. If a climb is too difficult to ascend without resorting to these debasing tactics leave it for future generations to try.
High-grade concrete expansion bolts (3/8" by 2 to 2 1/2" or longer) have become the fixed anchors of choice; for rappel stations use 2 long bolts with heavy duty or high-tensile chains. Use care and discretion when placing fixed anchors. Because of growing concerns over visual pollution caused by fixed anchors, all new anchor systems should be camouflage painted to match the color of the rock.
Trip Planning Information
Area description: Single- and multi-pitch routes on coarse granitic domes in a forested mountain setting.General location: The Lolo domes are in the Bitterroot Mountains about 34 miles southwest of Missoula near Lolo Pass, the Lolo Hot Springs resort, and the Idaho border.
Camping: An overnight lodge, recreation vehicle camping, and some services (bar, restaurant, hot pool) are available at Lolo Hot Springs resort. Car camping is possible along Fish Creek Road. Lee Creek Campground is a Forest Service fee ($6/night) facility with 22 units and water 1.4 miles west of Lolo Hot Springs on US 12.
Climbing season: Generally from late March to November, depending on snowfall and temperatures.
Restrictions and access: Most of the domes are on private land. Please respect all restrictions, road closures, and locked gates. So far the land owners allow climbing, but it is important to continue treating the area with respect; some roads may be closed to vehicular travel, and gates may be locked. Parking is not usually a problem except at Bonsai Rock (see Bonsai section for details). Do not park in front of any gates and block access for the landowners.
Guidebooks: The Climber's Guide to Lolo Pass by Brad Hutcheson and Bitterroot Guidebook by Rick Torre.
Nearby mountain shops, guide services, and climbing gyms: Canyon Critters, Hamilton; Pipestone Mountaineering (retail, rental, and instruction), Missoula; The Trailhead (retail and rental), Missoula; Hold-On (climbing gym, retail, instruction, and rental), Missoula; University of Montana indoor climbing wall, Missoula.
The Heap
The Heap is one of the newest developed areas in Lolo. It has eight routes from 5.6 to 5.11 and is the best place for beginners in the area. Six of the routes are 5.9 and under, offering classic Lolo style climbing. There are the mandatory friction slabs, edges, dikes, and some cracks to test the full range of skills. The longest routes are only about 100' and many require some gear to supplement the bolts.
The Heap, with its easy approach and west-by-north aspect, is great for an afternoon outing. The first route was established in 1992 by Mac Johnson and Chay Donnelly. During that summer, Donnelly established the test piece Sinister Footwear (5.11b), which sees very few on-sight ascents today. Johnson teamed up with Zack Spannagel and Brad Hutcheson later in the fall and together they produced several classic lines on the left end of The Heap. The spring of 1993 brought Hutcheson back to the rock. With various partners, he established many easy lines.
The Heap can be a busy place because of moderate routes and easy access. Climbing classes are often found here during the weekends. Because of its smaller nature and the impact from large groups of climbers please be aware of the trail erosion that is becoming a problem. Do not create new trails and don't hesitate to spend some time doing erosion control maintainence if the desire strikes.
Finding the rock: From Missoula take US 93 south to the town of Lolo. Turn right on US 12 and go toward Lolo Pass; Lolo Hot Springs is about 34 miles from Missoula. Take US 12 about 0.5 mile beyond Lolo Hot Springs Resort and turn left onto the graveled East Fork Lolo Creek Road (this is the first left after passing Lolo Hot Springs). Cross the bridge and make another left onto an unmarked road. Follow this road, and after about 0.8 mile from US 12 there should be a small pullout on the right at a large gully. Park here. A trail heads up this wash. Follow it for the 5 minute approach to The Heap. All the routes described here are on the aspect facing the approach.
1. Sinister Footwear (5.11b) The right-most climb on the rock. Scramble up onto a small ledge to begin. The opening moves are the crux on this interesting face route; 75'; bolts, gear (#1 Camalot or equivalent is useful to protect top of seam after second bolt; large cams and nuts useful for belay). Descent: Scramble and walk off toward left/east side of rock.
2. Temperature's Rising (5.9) Shares same start as DIKE'S EDGE; first route approached from parking area and left of SINISTER'. Ascend vertical dike; after 3rd bolt step right and continue up friction slab past more bolts to 2-bolt anchor at top; 100'; 8 bolts. Descent: Scramble and walk off left.
3. Dike's Edge (5.6) Ascends vertical dike and face above. Step left across gully after 3rd bolt; 100'; 10 bolts; 2-bolt anchor. Descent: Scramble and walk off left.
4. Heart Throb (5.8) Starts about 40' left of DIKE'S EDGE. Face climb past 2 bolts to short crack (hard to protect-TCUs useful); continue up rolling friction slab past bolts to a diagonal crack; follow crack and step right to seam when feasible then exit past large pocket above; 5 bolts, gear to 3"; 2-bolt anchor. Descent: Scramble and walk off left.
5. Yahtzee (5.9 R) Left of HEART THROB. Line follows rolling face to hand crack below dike-like horns (crux); Tri-Cams or TCUs help prevent runout to top; belay at top, using gear (to 2") in cracks (do not use small tree for an anchor). Descent: Scramble and walk off left.
6. Push It Along (5.9) This and the remaining routes are all located farther left around the rock from YAHTZEE. Start at left side of pleasant alcove by a large pine tree near left end of rock; ascend good edges; 70'; 5 bolts, gear (#1 Camalot or equivalent useful). Descent: Single-rope rappel from chain anchor.
7. Conjunction Junction (5.10c) Next route left of PUSH IT ALONG. Ascend finger crack and seam to steep face and bulge (hard-to-see bolt over roof); 70'; 2 bolts, gear (TCUs to 1" and larger cams useful). Descent: Single-rope rappel from chain anchor.
8. Shift and Adjust (5.8) The left-most climb on rock. Start down and left of CONJUNCTION' in short crack; ascend crack to friction slab and roof; 70'; bolts, gear (TCUs and larger cams to 2" useful). Descent: Single-rope rappel from chain anchor.
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