A GORP Content Partner
Adapted from
The Birders Guide
to Montana
by Terry McEneaney
Montana Big Game and Birds
National Bison Range & Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge
The first birders in Montana were undoubtedly the native inhabitants. These people lived in close harmony with the land and had an intimate understanding of animal behavior and the environment, including the ecology of birds. Each tribe had names for every component of the natural world, and names and lessons were passed down by word of mouth and through symbolism and art. Tribal languages included special names for each bird species. Birds played an important role in most Native American cultures, as evidenced by the dances and pow-wow rituals that mimic the plumage and behavior of different species of Montana birdlife.
The first white explorers brought with them a new appreciation for the natural wonders they encountered. One of the greatest scientific and geographical explorations in history occurred in Montana when Meriwether Lewis and Captain William Clark led the Corps of Discovery across the continent between 1804 and 1806. Lewis, a naturalist and journalist, was appointed leader of this scientific team by President Thomas Jefferson. Lewis was accompanied by a group of adventurers, including his friend Clark who had no formal education but tremendous wilderness skills and talents as a communicator, cartographer, and chronicler.
The expedition set off May 14, 1804 from St. Louis, heading up the Missouri River to explore uncharted wilderness. Their primary mission was to record as much information as possible about the native inhabitants and natural resources encountered along their route. In April 1805, they entered what is today Montana, and recorded a number of impressive bird discoveries in their field journals.
Many of the species described by Lewis and Clark were new to science. The Sage Grouse for instance, was first noted in the vicinity of the Marias River. During the expedition, Capt. Clark sketched this bird in his journal and named it "Cock of the Plains." The Loggerhead Shrike was also first described by the explorers near the mouth of the Marias River. The list of birds grew as the expedition forged ahead. A Lewis' Woodpecker was first found near the Gates of the Mountains area, while Blue Grouse and Pinyon Jay were discovered near what is today the town of Whitehall. Clark's Nutcracker, formerly called Clark's Crow, was another bird first discovered in Montana. The number and diversity of birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and plants documented for the first time during this expedition could never be duplicated. On the banks of the Missouri River, near the confluence of the Marias River, Lewis actually compiled the first bird list for Montana.
The obstacles they encountered were true tests of skill and daring. . .
They not only recorded individual species, but found the time to record wildlife abundance. Their journals were saturated with accounts of wildlife, such as "game is becoming more scarce, particularly beaver of which we have seen few for several days." The expedition also contributed new knowledge of the geographical distribution of species not well understood, such as the now extinct Passenger Pigeon. The Corps of Discovery noted the most westerly extent of this species' range when they recorded Passenger Pigeons just southwest of Great Falls in July 1805, and in the Cutbank and Wolf Point areas in July 1806.Cross-country travel in those days was extremely difficult. The Corps of Discovery proved as adaptable as the terrain was varied, at times relying on keel boats, pirogues, canoes, horses, and the moccasins on their feet. The obstacles they encountered were true tests of skill and daring, including raging rivers, hostile grizzly bears, hordes of mosquitoes, and the sharp-spined prickly pear cactus.
Although the Lewis and Clark Expedition went as far as the mouth of the Columbia River on the Pacific Coast, they still returned by way of Montana. Their last day in Montana was August 12, 1806. In total, approximately one-quarter of the total distance traveled during the entire expedition, and six months of time, was spent by the Corps of Discovery in Montana. They spent more time in Montana than in any other state. Upon return to St. Louis, the explorers ran into unforeseeable obstacles after completing such a successful journey. Lewis died in 1809, and Clark was unable to take on the difficult task of publishing the journals. The results of the expedition remained in limbo for years. Even though most of the specimens collected by the expedition were lost during museum exchanges and publication of the journals was long delayed, Lewis and Clark had paved the way for future scientific expeditions in the west. The opportunities for discovery had just begun.
The explorers came and so did the adventurers and birders. Of note was David Thompson, who explored western Montana. Then Prince Maximilian du Wied, accompanied by premier artist and painter Karl Bodmer, visited eastern Montana and the movement began. Next came the famous wildlife artist and naturalist John James Audubon, who visited only a small section of eastern Montana but was able to discover two important bird species, the "Sprague's Missouri Skylark" (now called Sprague's Pipit) and the Baird's Sparrow. These species were named after two of Audubon's close friends.
What drew these pioneer birders to Montana, and what continues to draw birders today, is the state's exceptional environment. Montana is Spanish for "mountainous," and mountainous it is. The western third of Montana is characterized by mountains and mountain valleys, the central third by plains and isolated mountain ranges, and the eastern third by plains country with rolling hills. The Continental Divide, the high dividing line that separates waters into the Atlantic or Pacific drainages, meanders from north to south though the western third of the state. Montana is the nation's fourth largest state, bordering four states and three Canadian provinces, and comprising a land area of approximately 93 million acres. On average, Montana measures 550 miles from east to west, and 275 miles from north to south. The highest point in Montana is 12,799-foot Granite Peak in the Beartooth Range, and the lowest point is where the Kootenai River enters Idaho at an elevation of 1,820 feet. For all the space and scenery, Montana is comparatively uncrowded.
National Bison Range
The National Bison Range is one of the oldest big-game refuges in the U.S., and was established in 1908 with the help of Teddy Roosevelt and the American Bison Society. The original purpose for the Bison Range was to preserve and maintain a representative herd of American bison or buffalo. Today this 18,541-acre refuge has an assortment of big-game wildlife, including white-tailed deer, mule deer, pronghorn, elk, bighorn sheep, and even mountain goats. The range was eventually designated as a refuge for native birds in 1921. It is one of the best places to view a mixture of big game and birds.The scenery is also sensational, with the broad Flathead Valley to the north and the majestic Mission Mountains to the east. The St. Ignatius Mission in St. Ignatius, Montana, (five miles north of Ravalli) is well worth the stop. Established in 1854 for the Flathead Indians by Father DeSmet, this church is the second oldest mission in Montana (the first being the St. Mary Mission in Stevensville). The paintings inside the church are truly a Montana treasure.
Birding Information
The National Bison Range is located forty-five miles north of Missoula on the Flathead Indian Reservation. (See a map of the National Bison Range.) Three primary habitat types are found here: riparian (vegetation along Mission Creek, Jocko River); palouse prairie (wheatgrass-fescue mixture similar to that found in eastern Washington); and montane forest (Douglas fir, ponderosa pine). The only entrance to the Bison Range is found in the small town of Moiese on Highway 212, and if you are not paying attention you can drive right by it. Stop at the visitor center to see excellent exhibits about bison management and to find out which roads are open. The visitor center is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. seven days a week during summer and 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays in winter. Inquire at the visitor center for more specific birding information.There are two options for birding the Bison Range, depending on the time of day and season: the short tour and the long tour. The short loop, also known as Buffalo Prairie Drive, is a narrow gravel road through grassland habitat near the visitor center. Watch for Gray Partridge, Mourning Dove, Mountain Bluebird, Vesper Sparrow, and Western Meadowlark. The grassland swales or gullies on the short loop are the best places on the Bison Range to see the Grasshopper Sparrow (especially during late spring-summer).
In the riparian corridor along Mission Creek, stops at the nature trail, picnic area, and educational group area usually produce satisfactory results. Great Horned Owl, Northern Pygmy-Owl, Long-eared Owl, and Northern Saw-whet Owl have an affinity for this riparian habitat. Double-crested Cormorant, Common Merganser, Belted Kingfisher, Western Kingbird, Eastern Kingbird, Northern Rough-winged Swallow, Marsh Wren, and Common Yellowthroat also can be found here during the appropriate season. Townsend's Solitaire are easily found here in fall and winter.
The long tour, a one-way nineteen-mile loop on the Red Sleep Mountain Scenic Drive, takes two to three hours to complete. This drive is closed in winter, except the out-and-back ten-mile drive through Alexander Basin. The Red Sleep Mountain Scenic Drive is gravel and very winding, with outstanding scenic and wildlife viewing opportunities. Visitors are not allowed to hike away from the road, except on two short designated trails at Bitterroot Trail rest stop and High Point. A word to the wise--don't get out of your car with bison nearby. Bison are unpredictable and dangerous.
The long, scenic loop drive begins in grasslands, where Western Meadowlark and Vesper Sparrow are the predominant species. Mountain Bluebird can also be found here, while the Dusky Flycatcher favors shrub vegetation (snowberry) in the smaller draws. Along Pauline Creek, Yellow-breasted Chat and MacGillivray's Warbler are the predominant species. Lazuli Bunting, Yellow Warbler, and Wilson's Warbler can be found in the medium height vegetation. Red-eyed Vireo and Northern Oriole are typically found in the taller deciduous trees. The west switchback area is another place to look for the Dusky Flycatcher.
On the edge of the timber, look for Warbling Vireo, Cassin's Finch, Chipping Sparrow, and Dark-eyed Junco in summer. In the timber, notice how the Douglas fir is found primarily on the wetter north-facing slopes, while ponderosa pine occurs on the drier south-facing slopes. Watch for Yellow-rumped Warbler and Mountain Chickadee. At the Bitterroot Trail rest stop, look for Clark's Nutcracker, Lewis' Woodpecker, Northern Flicker (red-shafted race), and on occasion Pygmy Nuthatch. Blue Grouse can also be found in the timber here. For a nice view, try taking the short walk on the Bitterroot Trail from the rest stop.
At High Point, Golden Eagle and an occasional Red-tailed Hawk can be observed. On the east switchbacks, Rock Wren can be found singing in the rock outcrops. Golden Eagle are also seen here, as are mountain goats on occasion. In Alexander Basin, besides viewing Vesper Sparrow and Western Meadowlark, look for Short-eared Owl and Northern Harrier. The road returns by paralleling Mission Creek, completing the scenic loop.
Two nearby birding areas are worth mentioning. The Ravalli Potholes are 1.5 miles north of Ravalli on U.S. Highway 93. These potholes lie within the Bison Range on the north side of the St. Ignatius divide. Depending on the water levels of the ponds, birding can be excellent for waterfowl and shorebirds, especially during migration. Tundra Swan may be sighted here during migration. The other area is the Jocko River Fishing Access Site three miles west of Ravalli on Highway 200 (mile marker 113). A short walk on the trail to the river through cottonwood and dense shrubs offers excellent viewing of passerines. Black-capped Chickadee, Red-breasted Nuthatch, and Pileated Woodpecker are some of the species found here.
Helpful Information
Elevation: 2,585 ft (riparian); 4,885 ft (High Point).
Habitat(s): Riparian, palouse prairie, montane forest.
Best Birding Season(s): Spring, summer.
Best Birding Month(s): Mid May to mid June.
Montana Highway Map Location: 2-D.
Hazards: Bison, rattlesnakes.
Nearest Food, Gas, Lodging: Moiese, Ravalli, St. Ignatius.
Camping: Numerous (inquire at the National Bison Range). A tribal permit is required when camping on the Flathead Indian Reservation.
Land Ownership: USFWS.
Recommended Length of Stay: 3 to 8 hours.
Ninepipe
National Wildlife Refuge
The Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1921 around an existing irrigation reservoir on the Flathead Indian Reservation and is administered by the U.S. Department of Fish and Wildlife Service. The adjacent wetlands are managed by the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks and the Confederated Salish and Kootnai Tribes. Drawdowns for irrigation on Ninepipe Reservoir do occur and are more obvious during drought years and in the fall. No hunting is allowed on the refuge, though it is allowed on adjacent state-owned lands.The landscape here is an ancient glacial moraine pocked with thousands of potholes or kettle ponds. The potholes formed when large masses of ice buried in the glacial moraine melted out, leaving a water-filled hole in the ground. The abundance of ponds make Ninepipe one of the most important wetland areas in western Montana. The jagged wall of the Mission Mountains dominates the eastern horizon of this scenic birders paradise.
Birding Information
This 5,037-acre refuge located about five miles south of Ronan on U.S. 93 offers relatively easy birding year-round. (See a map of the Ninepipe NWR.) Parts of the refuge are closed during nesting season, and during hunting season access is limited to the secondary county roads and paved highways that surround the refuge.The network of roads crosses a variety of habitats, most offering excellent birdwatching opportunities. From late fall through early spring, look for Northern Shrike perched atop the tallest shrubs as they hunt for mice, insects, and small birds. Ring-necked Pheasant, year-round residents, favor fields, shelterbelts, and dense reed beds. Bobolink are occasionally seen in roadside fields. On warm, still summer evenings, rare Black Swift sometimes venture from their nesting sites in the Mission Mountains to feed over the refuge.
Try Olsen Road for good views of waterfowl in summer and a strong fall and winter contingent of Long-eared and Great Horned Owls; Rough-legged and Red-tailed Hawks; and Prairie and Peregrine Falcons. Lucky birders may glimpse a rare winter visitor from the arctic, the Gyrfalcon. Duck Road is excellent for ducks and pheasants; also watch for Short-eared, Long-eared, and Great Horned Owls. The rare Snowy Owl is known to winter on the refuge and adjacent farmlands.
The most abundant nesting waterfowl species include Canada Goose, Mallard, Redhead, Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Blue-winged Teal, Green-winged Teal, Ruddy Duck, Gadwall, and Common Merganser. Colonial nesting birds include Double-crested Cormorant, Great Blue Heron, California Gull, and Ring-billed Gull. Other spring and summer species to look for are Western Grebe, Red-necked Grebe, American Coot, and American Avocet. Bald Eagle are present year-round, though more plentiful during migration periods.Tundra Swan and shorebirds also stopover at Ninepipe during migration.
Wildlife checklists and information on local wildlife watching sites for the Flathead Indian Reservation are available by contacting the Wildlife Management Program, Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, P.O. Box 278, Pablo, MT 59855 ph: (406) 675-2700. Bird checklists for the refuge are available from the National Bison Range.
Helpful Information
Elevation: 3,100 ft.
Habitat(s): Wetlands, cultivated fields, shelterbelts.
Best Birding Season(s): Good year-round; winter for raptors.
Best Birding Month(s): April, May, June, September, October.
Montana Highway Map Location: 2-C.
Hazards: Flies, mosquitoes.
Nearest Food, Gas, Lodging: Ronan, St. Ignatius.
Camping: MacDonald Lake (inquire for a listing at the National Bison Range).
Land Ownership: Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, USFWS, MDFWP.
Recommended Length of Stay: 1 to 5 hours.
Additional Information
National Bison Range
132 Bison Range Road
Moiese, MT 59824
ph: (406) 644-2211.
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